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#1
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thanks a lot for your responses guys. i appreciate the advice, and hopefully I can use it to my advantage.
I think I'm going to stick with my $2 strategy for .01/.02 but I think I will switch to the full buy in when I move up to .02/.05. Not sure if its just a coincidence with this small sample size, but I've been able to get my $2 up to about $5 or $6 at least 50% of the time (hardly ever losing the full $2). |
#2
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Your view of this whole "poker thing" is wayyyyy too short term. Also, buy-in full everytime you drop a penny under full.
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Get well soon, MCA! |
#3
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True True! This is where PT comes in. It can track how much you are up or down. If I am triple tabling under my "carefull" rules, I'll quit once I down just over one buy-in "net". I'll also write down my account balance when I start and keep checking the cashier to know how much I am up or down on the night.
Like the Sgt.-Mjr use to yell "RELOAD RELOAD RELOAD!" and ocassionally "RETREAT!"
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poopity, poopity pants. |
#4
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Actually, I have a question on moving up, so I'll ask it in this thread.
say you are playing 25 max and you build your BR to 1000. You play 1000 or so hands at 50 max and vary from 1150 to 900. Sitting there, AA cracked with 900 in your account, do you move down? How bad of a beating (in terms of monetary loses) do you take before you drop back down?
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poopity, poopity pants. |
#5
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even though ur a winning player?
I think that if it makes you uncomfortable you should just move down. It's better to play it on the safe side.
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The great masses of the people ... will more easily fall victims to a big lie than to a small one. |
#6
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Not so much of an issue of comfort. I was just wondering about applying that 20 buy-in idea for proper BR management. If you don't treat it like a hard and ABSOLUTE rule, then what.
hmmm. Wait a sec. When I say it that way, comfort is definitely an issue. ![]() Granted, In think the Q still stands. If I have built up to $1000 in order to play 50 max, how far below $1000 should I allow myself to be spanked down before I revert to 25 max (in general).
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poopity, poopity pants. |
#7
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This thread has gone from semi-strange to well.... I don't know what.
Bankroll management has been discusses here dozens of times - hit the search box if you are looking for more. But I will add: Sitting with a short stack while learning and trying to improve your basic game (as opposed to a short stack specific approach which would be completely pointless at micro limits anyway) is a bad idea. Sit with a freaking full stack - or move down. I guess the exception to this would be when you are already playing the lowest limits available and can't move any lower. My advice then would be to stop playing, read some books, do your homework, whatever, until you are comfortable playing with a full buy in. Whatever you do, DO NOT move up until you are playing the current level with a full buy in. Don't even think about it. And yeah, Ando (not to single you out, dude, but I completely disagree with what Invigilator said about you) claims his short stack strategy works, but from what I've seen, I don't believe it. I suspect any success he has had playing like this would be from short term variance more than anything else. As for when to move back down after moving up, I'm not sure why this is even a question: If you have $900, that's 18 buy ins at $50, right? So, if your limit is 20, you're below your limit, so move down. To avoid immediately having to move down if you take one beat after moving up, wait to move up until you have 25 buy ins and then move back down when you get to 20 (for example). Simple. If you insist on moving up when you get to exactly 20, move back down when you drop to 18. But FFS, don't sit there and blow your entire roll after things are going south, just because you WERE rolled for a game! That's the whole point of bankroll management and this 20x buy in guideline. |
#8
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Right, so if you move up when you hit the exact $ amount that you need for the next level and then lose your first hand (or have a bad first session), do you move down?
I would say take a shot at it for maybe 1/4 of the roll (assuming the previous limit was about 1/2 the requirement) and then if you are down 75% move back down and rebuild and then try again. That way you aren't knocking yourself down too far at the higher limit and having to start over at the previous level.
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Your biggest edge in a HORSE tourney is knowing that the game just changed from Razz to 7 Stud. - BB http://www.talkingpoker.com/forum/blog.php?u=64 |
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