i think that they just watch very closely. obviously they dont see anyone counting the cards specifically, but what they do see is how the player varies his bets as you progress through the shoe. i would assume that if they see you increase your bet significantly in some sort of pattern, they will bar you for counting cards.
of course, there are ways around this, but most people who try to count cards really do not swing the game into their advantage because they do not know how to adjust their bet without getting labelled a counter.
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